The season starts with the tyres
A motorcycle tyre works harder than a car tyre: two small contact patches have to brake, steer and hold the bike while leaned over in a corner. At the start of the season, do more than check whether there is “some tread left" - review the size, pressure, age, damage and whether the tyre still matches the way you ride.
If the tyre is already close to its limit, or you want to start the season with confidence, browse our catalogue: all motorcycle tyres.
Choose by riding style first
Motorcycle tyre makers classify tyres not only by size, but by use. Michelin stresses that the main criterion is how the bike is used: commuting, travel, track, off-road or mixed adventure riding. Pirelli follows a similar logic with hypersport, touring, adventure, off-road and racing families. In practice: a track-focused tyre is not the right choice if 90% of your riding is wet city traffic, and a hard-wearing touring tyre will not feel like a sport tyre on mountain bends.
| Riding type | What to look for | Practical advice |
|---|---|---|
| City and commuting | Longer mileage, quick warm-up, stability on wet asphalt. | Choose road/touring or scooter-type tyres and check pressure often. |
| Sporty road riding | Fast grip, precise turn-in, good behaviour at higher operating temperature. | Check manufacturer size and speed index; break in new tyres gradually. |
| Adventure and mixed roads | Balance between asphalt stability, tread blocks and durability on rougher roads. | Be honest about the split: 80/20, 70/30 or 50/50 road/off-road. |
| Cruiser, custom, classic | Load reserve, straight-line stability and construction approved for the bike. | Do not switch between radial and bias construction without the motorcycle maker’s approval. |
| Track and sport | Temperature window, precise pressure, maximum grip in controlled conditions. | Race tyres often do not suit public roads because they need higher operating temperatures. |
Size, indexes and construction are not “close enough"
The safest option is to follow the motorcycle manufacturer’s specified size, load index and speed index. The maximum pressure on the tyre sidewall is not the day-to-day road recommendation: for street use, follow the owner’s manual or the placard on the bike. Front and rear tyres often have different sizes, and some tyres are marked “Front" or “Rear" and must be mounted only in that position.
- 120/70 R17 is often used as a front sport/touring size.
- 180/55 R17 is often used as a rear sport/touring size.
- 90/90 R21 is common on adventure and enduro front wheels, but always check the homologated size for your bike.
A 10-minute start-of-season check
Before the first longer ride, do a short but consistent inspection. It matters even if the motorcycle spent the winter in a garage and looks unused.
- Pressure: check cold tyres with an accurate gauge. Bridgestone, Metzeler and Dunlop all stress regular cold-pressure checks; in practice, check at least weekly and before longer rides.
- Tread: inspect wear indicators and flat spots. Wet roads quickly expose shallow tread.
- Damage: look for cuts, cracks, bulges, embedded objects and uneven wear.
- Valves and caps: old valves can leak air, so it is worth replacing the valve when mounting a new tyre.
- Balancing: vibration, hopping or unusual noise after tyre replacement means the wheel should be checked again.
When to replace instead of “one more ride"
| Sign | What to do |
|---|---|
| Wear indicator reached or cord/fabric visible | Replace immediately. Legal minimums vary by country, but safety ends before optimism does. |
| Bulge, deep cut or sidewall damage | Avoid aggressive riding and have the tyre inspected by a specialist; sidewall damage is often not repairable. |
| Old DOT date, hard rubber or cracking | Continental and Bridgestone use 10 years as an upper limit, while Avon gives a stricter recommendation for its own tyres. If the rubber is hard, cracked or has unclear history, replace it earlier. |
| Wrong size, construction or front/rear combination | Return to an approved combination. A poor mix can change motorcycle handling. |
⚠️ Do not bleed pressure from a hot tyre
Important: normal riding heats the tyre and raises pressure. If you lower a hot tyre to the cold pressure value, it will be underinflated when it cools down. Set pressure on cold tyres according to the motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendation.
Break in new tyres gently
New motorcycle tyres feel different during the first kilometres and the bike can react more sharply or feel more slippery than before. Continental, Dunlop and Avon all support a calm break-in period: for roughly the first 100-160 km, avoid sudden acceleration, maximum braking, aggressive lean angles and high speed. Check pressure again after the run-in.
Quick links to motorcycle tyres
If you already know the size, start from a direct filter. If not, open the whole category and narrow it by width, profile and rim diameter.
- all motorcycle tyres
- 120/70 R17 motorcycle tyres
- 180/55 R17 motorcycle tyres
- 90/90 R21 motorcycle tyres
Frequently asked questions
Can I fit a different size if it is almost the same?
On a motorcycle, a few millimetres can change steering response, ride height and ABS/TC behaviour. For road use, choose the homologated size; verify alternatives against motorcycle or tyre maker data.
Can I mix different models front and rear?
Sometimes it is possible, but the balance between front and rear tyres is critical on a motorcycle. The safer choice is a matched set or a combination approved by the manufacturer.
Why is pressure lower after winter if the tyre is not punctured?
Pressure naturally drops during long storage and temperature changes. If it drops quickly or needs a lot of air every week, check the valve, rim and tyre.
Get ready for the season in time
Choose motorcycle tyres
